Bouchra Jarrar

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Review

  • Nicole Phelps

“Couture du jour.” Bouchra Jarrar’s PR man coined a catchphrase backstage before her show today, and there’s a good chance it’ll stick. No other designer working in couture approaches daywear with the same conviction. “It’s my signature,” Jarrar said. “I just think a woman looks most elegant in trousers.”

It was hard to find fault with Jarrar’s stitched-crease pants, cropped a couple of inches above the ankle. But she’s always been obsessed with fit. This season she gave her perfect trousers an extra helping of attitude, slinging multiple belts from the waist, some with heavy-duty silver chains attached. Sculpted metal necklaces and cuffs added more edge. On top, she proposed gilets in handwoven geometric patterns, an epaulette-shoulder vest in menswear wool, or a tweed Perfecto. All unzipped and sans shirts underneath them, or with midriff-revealing draped jersey wraps. “I wanted to see skin,” she said. As another option, Jarrar had fluid, silk satin pants. Their high waistline was fairly leg-elongating, but they didn’t have the same kind of gravitational pull as the cropped ones. A black leather style was especially lust-inducing.

For evening—Jarrar didn’t ignore the category completely—there was a pair of bias-cut trapeze gowns vaguely 1960s-ish in feeling with plunge-front V-necks and high slits, the more compelling of the two in a color-blocked combination of blush-pink crepe, black georgette, and ivory charmeuse. But like the woman said, she loves her pants; the two best outfits here made a showcase of them. The first came with a harness embroidered in ivory feathers and amber and mirrored crystals; the second with a tailored vest studded allover with iridescent beads.

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Want to see who you’re voting for? Presenting the most trending finalists on social media

AmineAmine Bendriouich
#AmineBendriouich
NafsikaNafsika Skourti
#NafsikaSkourti
TallerTaller Marmo
#TallerMarmo

Show your support for your favorite finalist by sharing their Fashion Prize profiles on social media

Amine Bendriouich
#AmineBendriouich
 
Aziz Humaid
#AzizHumaid
 
The Emperor 1688
#TheEmperor1688
 
Hussein Bazaza
#HusseinBazaza
 
Matar
#Matar
 
Nafsika Skourti
#NafsikaSkourti
 
Rami Kadi
#RamiKadi
 
Reemami
#Reemami
 
Taller Marmo
#TallerMarmo
 
Zayan the Label
#ZayanTheLabel