Zuhair Murad

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Review

  • Sofia Guellaty

Zuhair Murad has been on a roll. Kristen Stewart recently wore three of his designs and sat front row at this Fall 2013 Couture show, while other major celebrity endorsements including Taylor Swift at the Grammys and Jennifer Lopez at the Met Ball have strengthened his popularity. His store on the chic rue François 1er is a manifestation that the House is firmly settled in the Couture business and lavish wedding gowns.

This Fall 2013 collection’s story reveals a woman who awakens in a dream to find herself lost in a dark and enchanted forest. She is sheathed in lace and silk and shines brightly in the night.

Iridescence was key here. Indeed, a sparkly embroidered jumpsuit over nude tulle was a risky bet, but that is what sets Murad apart: his desire to explore different shapes and constructions and celebrate the woman’s body in all its forms. For instance, his floral embroidered Chantilly lace peplum jacket and skirt could compliment any body shape and was one of the most striking designs on the runway.

Murad also made efforts to cinch the waistline, one of the keys for a flattering silhouette—hence the abundance of his signature hourglass shape, embellished with thousands of feathers and drenched in a hue of rich, deep blue. Or, a fully embroidered gold gown with a stunning mix of beads, sequins, and pearls, which will almost certainly end up on a Hollywood starlet.

Not every design was on the mark, though; some of the more metallic pieces were not as striking and lacked the visual sophistication of the other dresses, and in some cases the fabrics didn’t look as well constructed. The dead branches creeping up the majority of the looks, however, were an elegant parti-pris and the color palette of emerald green and sapphire blue was a real feast for the eyes.